Marie Antoinette and the Nipple
When we think of historical fashion, it’s easy to imagine a world of modesty, with women wrapped up in layers of dark fabric, high-necked blouses, and strict corsets. But if you think the past was all about conservative clothing, you might want to sit down for this one. Let’s travel back to the 18th century, specifically to the French court of Marie Antoinette, where fashion was less about covering up and more about showing off—sometimes a lot more than you’d expect.
Décolleté: The Plunge That Dared
In the time of Marie Antoinette, low-cut bodices and revealing necklines weren’t just trendy—they were practically a requirement for anyone who wanted to keep up with the latest fashion. Think of it as a high-stakes fashion show, except instead of runway models, you had ladies of the French court daring each other to see just how much décolleté they could display. The term “décolleté,” referring to a plunging neckline, wasn’t just a design choice; it was a bold statement that said, “Look at me!” And believe me, people were looking.
Women of the court wore blouses cut so low that it wasn’t uncommon for a bit of nipple or at least a tantalizing hint of areola to make an appearance. Today, this would be enough to make headlines, but back then, it was simply how you showed your social status. Shocking? Maybe by today’s standards, but in 18th-century Europe, flashing a bit of skin wasn’t scandalous; it was a sign that you were young, affluent, and—wait for it—pure. Yes, you read that right. It was as if baring some chest was the ultimate way to tell the world, “I’m fresh-faced, youthful, and haven’t had kids yet!” In other words, if you weren’t showing some skin, people might start wondering what you were trying to hide. It was like the 18th-century equivalent of posting a glamorous selfie on Instagram: a sign that you were living your best life.
Interestingly, the cut of the bodice was so low that clothing designers had to get creative with supporting the dress—cue the invention of some early versions of padding and stiffened fabrics to make sure everything stayed in place. Think of it as the ancient cousin of the push-up bra!
A Different Time, A Different View
Today, we might associate exposed breasts with controversy, scandal, or even shame. But in Marie Antoinette’s time, the public’s perception of nudity was a world apart from our own. In fact, the body—particularly the female form—was viewed through a completely different lens. Rather than being censored or hidden away, an exposed breast was not only acceptable but also a key part of high fashion. It wasn’t like today, where a wardrobe malfunction on the red carpet leads to Twitter meltdowns and tabloid frenzy.
Girls as young as fifteen were expected to show off their décolleté as a rite of passage into adulthood. If a teenage girl arrived at a ball without some cleavage on display, she might as well have shown up in jeans and a hoodie—completely out of place! It was so deeply embedded in social norms that not doing so would be akin to walking into a fancy dinner party in sweatpants—it just wasn’t done.
But it wasn’t just about the neckline. No, the fashion scene at the time was a full-blown spectacle. Fashionistas didn’t stop at low-cut bodices; they also added elaborate, sky-high powdered wigs that could reach up to three feet in height. These wigs weren’t just hairpieces; they were full-blown architectural marvels, often adorned with feathers, ribbons, and even miniature ships or gardens. It was a “go big or go home” kind of deal. Imagine walking into a room with a wig as tall as a toddler and a dress that barely covers your chest. Subtlety wasn’t exactly the goal here.
Even cosmetics followed the “more is more” philosophy. Pale faces powdered to ghostly perfection, bright rouge splashed on cheeks, and even artificial beauty marks applied to skin were part of the ensemble. Every detail was an expression of extravagance and wealth—after all, who else but the aristocracy had time to sit still for hours to get dressed and made up?
The Art of Censorship: Hiding the Scandal
Despite how common these revealing styles were, finding accurate depictions of them in art is surprisingly difficult. That’s because Western art has gone through extensive periods of censorship, where depictions of nudity and semi-nudity were obscured or strategically “fig-leafed” to preserve modesty. If you’ve ever seen ancient statues with leaves or drapery strategically placed, you can thank this long-standing discomfort with the human body. Oddly enough, this contrasts sharply with the open display of nudity in 18th-century fashion.
The fact that we have so few accurate artistic records of this revealing fashion trend is partly because later generations edited out the “scandalous” details. Artists would paint over low necklines or modify historical depictions to suit more conservative tastes. It’s as if someone came along with a virtual airbrush and said, “We’ll just tone this down for future audiences.”
If a contemporary historical drama decided to depict women in 18th-century attire with the same level of exposure that was fashionable at the time, it would probably cause quite a stir. Modern audiences might react with shock or discomfort at such a display, revealing just how far our societal norms have shifted. It’s a fascinating reflection of how our perceptions of modesty have evolved. What was once a symbol of status and purity is now something we carefully regulate, censor, and debate.
The Shift from Opulence to Simplicity
As with all trends, the fashion of exposed bodices and elaborate wigs eventually faded—but not without a little help from some significant historical events. Enter the French Revolution. The fall of the monarchy and the rise of the bourgeoisie brought about dramatic changes in fashion. The extravagant styles of the aristocracy, with their billowing skirts, low necklines, and towering wigs, were replaced by more modest and practical clothing. It was time for a fashion revolution. Suddenly, simplicity was in, and the opulence of the past was out. The new “it” look? Simple muslin dresses, unpowdered hair, and minimal jewelry. Fashion became a reflection of the political and social upheaval of the time, with people opting for styles that symbolized the new era of equality and practicality.
The Industrial Revolution also played a crucial role in transforming fashion. Advances in textile production and the rise of ready-to-wear clothing made fashion more accessible to the masses. Gone were the days when only the elite could afford the latest trends. Now, everyone could get in on the action, and fashion became a way for people to express their individuality rather than just their social standing. This democratization of fashion marked a significant shift from the rigid, status-driven styles of Marie Antoinette’s era.
Global Influences and the Changing Tide
But the story doesn’t end there. As Europe’s colonial reach expanded, so too did its fashion influences. The exchange of goods, ideas, and cultural practices between Europe and its colonies introduced new materials, patterns, and styles to the European fashion scene. Indian textiles, Chinese silks, and other exotic materials became all the rage, adding even more variety and richness to the fashion of the time.
Marie Antoinette herself played a major role in shaping these trends. Known for her extravagant tastes and love for luxury, she set the tone for fashion during her reign. Her patronage of designers like Rose Bertin and her preference for certain styles had a lasting impact on the fashion industry. She was the ultimate trendsetter, dictating what was in vogue at the French court and beyond. Her influence was so great that even after her death, her style continued to inspire fashion trends.
And let’s not forget her infamous “Peasant Dress” phase—a style that, ironically, required such luxurious fabrics and craftsmanship that only the wealthy could afford it. Even when she tried to tone it down, Marie’s style still screamed extravagance!
The Legacy of 18th-Century Fashion
Today, the low-cut bodices and grandiose wigs of the 18th century might seem like relics of a bygone era, but they serve as a powerful reminder of how fashion and societal values are constantly evolving. What was once considered the height of fashion and a symbol of status is now viewed as outrageous or inappropriate by modern standards. This evolution reflects broader historical, political, and social changes, illustrating the dynamic interplay between fashion and society.
Understanding this history not only gives us a glimpse into the past but also helps us appreciate the complexities and nuances of contemporary fashion. It shows us that fashion is never just about clothes—it’s about culture, politics, and the ever-changing norms of society. So, the next time you see a trend that makes you scratch your head, just remember: fashion has always been a little bit scandalous, a little bit outrageous, and a whole lot of fun.
Bonus Trivia
There is a legend that coupe glasses, which today are used for various mixed drinks, were modeled from Marie Antoinette’s (left) breast. It isn’t true however. The coupe glass was designed a hundred years before to serve champagne and sparkling wines.
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